There were three of us.
Me, myself and I. Almost a crowd. 16 days, hundreds of kilometers, dozens of Pad Tai. This is how it starts. In Bangkok.
The first I heard of the beach was In Bangkok, on the Ko Sanh Road. The Ko Sanh Road was a backpacker land. Almost all the buildings had been converted to guest houses, there were long-distance telephone booths with air-con, the cafes showed brand-new Hollywood films on video, and you couldn’t walk ten feet without passing a bootleg tape stall. The main function of the street was as a decompression chamber for those about to leave or enter Thailand; a halfway house between the East and the West.
Alex Garland, “The Beach”
This is not a kind of place you like. This is a place you need to get smoothly into a new reality. The reality you have never expected to experience on your own, but the reality you would desire if you could only know it exists. This is a place where you feel like a freshman. A FNG as a matter of fact. All you have to do is to go with the flow. Don’t take me wrong. Do not follow Westerners.
I arrived on Ko Sanh Road in the middle of the night. No reservation, no nothing. Some bars were still open, a friendly prostitute was offering her services to British and German retirees. Not to me, cause they know, that I know, that here in Thailand I can have it easily for free.
I was tired and sweating and in a big need to find an accommodation. After half an hour I found one on Soi Rambutri street in Balamphu. That was not a luxury hotel. In fact my single room was just a little larger than a bed. Walls were made of Formica and they moved when I touched them. I had a feeling that if I leaned against one it would fall over and maybe hit another, and all the walls of the neighboring rooms would collapse like dominoes. Just short of the ceiling, the wall stopped, and across the space was a strip of metal mosquito netting. One could see a corridor thru the net after climbing up on the bed. There were no windows. A fan was giving me a relief from heat and humidity. I fall asleep.
On another day I was supposed to see
Bangkok, but I didn’t want to do it at all. I am fed up with big cities. Last few months I have spent in
Seoul. I visited
Tokyo,
Osaka, Singapore. I want to see something else. Under those assumptions I decided to travel north, to the mountains, the day after. I bought a ticket for overnight bus and started exploring the city. To have a clear conscience I had to see at least one temple (
Wat). The biggest and most crowded
Ko Ratanakosin cost me 2 big dinners. The place was beautiful and whole covered with gold. That was enough.
In the afternoon thanks to friendly Thai I have found a nice little restaurant called Café Corner. I met there a long
Bangkok expat from
USA. We talked a lot about our travel plans. They served a great lemon shakes.
In the evening I decided to see some Muay Thai at
Lumphini Stadium. I still do not know why I bought ringside ticket. Only tourists. The real fun was couple meters away where for half the price you could shout and cheer your favorites with local people. Maybe next time. Somebody told not to buy tickets from people on the street, but I did it. When I started thinking that I lost my money instead of making a good deal it appeared that everything is okay and I can enter.
The second day I have spent sitting in the bar on
Soi Rambutri, drinking orange/lemon juice from big jag, learning Korean language and most of all watching people on the street. It is amazing how many interesting things happened during that time. Finally I could understand why
Thailand is a poor country. People here are good. They smile and love their king, but they are simply lazy. All they do is selling weird crap on the street or offering redundant things to tourists.
Tuk-tuk drivers can sleep in their vehicles for hours. Other are trying to rip off people passing by. You can also see aforementioned retirees in their late
70’ hugging extremely young Thai girls who are paid for companionship during the day and night.
This is also the day when I started my adventure with Pad Thai, a dish made of fried noodles, vegetables and a meat. Those who know me well can predict that it was always a chicken. I continued this adventure every single day of my stay in Thailand and I do not regret.